SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Lion Brand® Supplies:
• BASIC STITCH ANTI-PILLING
• #100 White: 3 balls (A)
• #106 Baby Blue: 1 ball (B)
• #105 Frost: 1 ball (C)
• #157 Lemonade: 1 ball (D)
• #184 Peachy: 1 ball (E)
• #101 Baby Pink: 1 ball (F)
• #112 Deco Rose: 1 ball (G)
• #102 Clay: 1 ball (H)
• Large-Eyed Blunt Needle
• Crochet Hook Size G-6
• 14"x 14" Pillow Form or Fiberfill Stuffing


• SIZE: About 14"x 14" ( 27 x 27 squares)


• GAUGE:
• 8 (chain 3, 3 dc) squares = about 4"
• BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

DIRECTIONS:

To find the downloadable patterns click on the "GET PATTERNS" tab above.

TECHNIQUE EXPLANATION:
Corner to Corner (C2C)
C2C The Corner-to-Corner (C2C) technique of crocheting is made by starting in one corner of a Chart (typically the lower right corner) & following the Chart row by row diagonally to the other corner (typically the top left corner)

STARTING YOUR C2C PILLOW:
Row 1: Starting in the lower right corner of the Chart. Chain 6. DC in 4th chain from hook. DC in last two chains. You now have a chain-3 space and a total of 3 DC stitches. This completes your first square and Row 1.
Row 2: Chain 6. DC in 4th chain from hook. DC in last two chains. Turn your work. At this point turning consists of just flipping over the first square. Slip stitch in the chain-3 space of the first square. Chain 3. Make 3 DC in the same chain-3 space. This completes your second two squares and Row 2.

INCREASE ROWS:
The first part of the Chart is worked by making an increase at the beginning of each row. You will start each row by chaining 6, making a DC in the 4th chain from hook & then a DC in each of the remaining 2 chains, turn, & continue making squares as you have been doing (Slip stitch in chain-3 space then chain 3 & work 3 DC in the same chain-3 space)

DECREASE ROWS:
The second part of the Chart is worked by making decreases on both edges. At the beginning of each row, turn your work and slip stitch across the 3 DC's of the last square made. Slip stitch in the chain-3 space then chain 3 and work 3 DC in the same chain-3 space. Continue making squares as you have been doing (Slip stitch in chain-3 space then chain 3 and work 3 DC in the same chain-3 space). At the end of the row, end with a slip stitch in the last chain-3 space, do not work chain 3 and 3 DC in that last chain-3 space.

HOW TO CHANGE YARN COLORS:
To attach a new color you will pull the new color yarn through as you make your slip stitch in the chain-3 space. Do not fasten off the old color. Leave the strand hanging & still attached to the ball. By not cutting yarn each time there is a color change, there will be fewer loose ends to weave in later. Just keep the balls not being used on the wrong side of your work. You can easily carry the yarn strand up from the previous row. Take the yarn strand & pull it up to the hook when you need to join that color back into your project.

When there are lot of color changes, it helps to split up balls of yarn by winding yarn around multiple bobbins, spools, large clothespins or even chip clips. The designer used large clothespins & then clipped them to the C2C piece when not in use so the yarn doesn't get tangled.

HOW TO READ THE CHART:
Print out the Chart. Start in the lower right corner & mark off each square as you go. Each square in this C2C Chart = chain 3 + 3 DC. The first square in the corner is Row 1. Work diagonally back & forth (down one row & back up the next). So, Row 2 of the Chart will be read diagonally from left to right & Row 3 from right to left.

NOTES:
Back & front are worked separately using the Corner-to-Corner (C2C) technique.
Back is worked with yarn color A only, following written instructions.
Yarn color is changed to form Butterfly pattern of front, following chart or written instructions.
If you are new to the Corner-2-Corner (C2C) technique, you may wish to make the back first, to practice C2C. Then make the front, using C2C & changing the yarn color following Chart.
A border is worked all the way around the outer edges of Front and Back.
front & back are sewn together to make the pillow.

BACK:
Working with A only, work in C2C technique, until all 53 rows have been completed.

INCREASE SECTION:
Row 1: With A, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch (first square made), turn.
(1 square) 
Row 2: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch (new square made), (sl
st, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, turn. (2 squares)
Row 3: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each
ch-3 sp across, turn. (3 squares)
Rows 4-27: Rep Row 3, working one more square in each row. (you will have 27 squares in Row 27)

DECREASE SECTION:
Row 28: Sl st in each dc across to next ch-3 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-3 sp to last ch-3 sp, sl st in last ch-3 sp, turn. (26 squares)  Rows 29-53: (1 square remains in Row 53)Do not fasten off.

BORDER:
Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced all the way around the outer edge of piece, working (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner; join with a sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.

FRONT:
Work in C2C technique, changing yarn color following chart or written instructions until all 53 rows have been completed.

INCREASE SECTION:
↙ Row 1: With A, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch (first square made), turn.
(1 square)
↗ Row 2: With A, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch (new square made), (sl
st, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, turn. (2 squares)
↙ Row 3: With A, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each
ch-3 sp across, turn. (3 squares)
Rows 4-11: With A, rep Row 3, working one more square in each row. (you will have 11 squares in Row 11)

NOTES:
Continue to repeat Row 3, working one more square in each row, & change yarn color as instructed.
Each row indicates how many squares to work using each color.
For example, A x 5, C x 2, B x 1, A x 4, means to begin by working 5 squares with A, then 2 squares with C, then 1 square with B & end with 4 squares worked with A.
↗ Row 12: A x 5, C x 2, B x 1, A x 4 (12 squares)  ↙ Row 13: A x 4, B x 1, C x 3, A x 5 (13 squares)  ↗ Row 14: A x 5, C x 4, B x 1, A x 4 (14 squares)  ↙ Row 15: A x 4, B x 1, C x 4, D x 1, A x 5 (15 squares)  ↗ Row 16: A x 6, D x 1, C x 4, B x 1, A x 4 (16 squares)  ↙ Row 17: A x 2, B x 3, C x 4, D x 2, A x 6 (17 squares)  ↗ Row 18: A x 7, D x 2, C x 4, B x 3, A x 2 (18 squares)  ↙ Row 19: A x 2, B x 3, C x 4, D x 3, A x 7 (19 squares)  ↗ Row 20: A x 8, D x 3, C x 4, B x 4, A x 1 (20 squares)  ↙ Row 21: A x 1, B x 4, C x 4, D x 3, A x 1, H x 1, A x 7 (21 squares)  ↗ Row 22: A x 8, H x 1, D x 4, C x 4, B x 4, A x 1 (22 squares)  ↙ Row 23: A x 1, B x 4, C x 4, D x 4, H x 1, A x 1, E x 3, A x 5 (23 squares)  ↗ Row 24: A x 5, F x 1, E x 4, H x 1, D x 4, C x 4, B x 3, A x 2 (24 squares)  ↙ Row 25: A x 3, B x 2, C x 4, D x 4, H x 1, E x 4, F x 2, A x 5 (25 squares)  ↗ Row 26: A x 5, F x 3, E x 4, H x 1, D x 4, C x 4, B x 1, A x 4 (26 squares)  ↙ Row 27: A x 5, C x 4, D x 4, H x 1, E x 4, F x 3, A x 6 (27 squares)  

DECREASE SECTION:
↗ Row 28: Sl st in each dc across to next ch-3 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-3 sp to last ch-3 sp, sl st in last ch-3 sp, working A x 5, F x 4, E x 4, H x 1, D x 4, C x 2, A x 6, turn. (26 squares)  ↙ Row 29: Sl st in each dc across to next ch-3 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-3 sp to last ch-3 sp, sl st in last ch-3 sp, working A x 11, H x 1, E x 4, F x 4, A x 5, turn. (25 squares)  ↗ Row 30: Sl st in each dc across to next ch-3 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-3 sp to last ch-3 sp, sl st in last ch-3 sp, in A x 4, G x 1, F x 4, E x 4, H x 1, A x 10, turn. (24 squares)  

Note: Repeat Row 30 & change yarn color as instructed, working one less square in each row.
↙ Row 31: A x 9, H x 1, A x 1, E x 3, F x 4, G x 1, A x 4 (23 squares)  ↗ Row 32: A x 4, G x 1, F x 4, E x 3, A x 1, H x 3, A x 6 (22 squares)  ↙ Row 33: A x 10, E x 2, F x 4, G x 1, A x 4 (21 squares)  ↗ Row 34: A x 4, G x 1, F x 4, E x 2, A x 1, H x 1, A x 7 (20 squares)  ↙ Row 35: A x 9, E x 1, F x 4, G x 1, A x 4 (19 squares)  ↗ Row 36: A x 4, G x 1, F x 4, E x 1, A x 1, H x 1, A x 6 (18 squares)  ↙ Row 37: A x 8, F x 4, G x 2, A x 3 (17 squares)  ↗ Row 38: A x 3, G x 2, F x 4, A x 7 (16 squares)  ↙ Row 39: A x 7, F x 3, G x 3, A x 2 (15 squares)  ↗ Row 40: A x 2, G x 3, F x 3, A x 6 (14 squares)  ↙ Row 41: A x 6, F x 2, G x 3, A x 2 (13 squares)  ↗ Row 42: A x 2, G x 3, F x 1, A x 6 (12 squares)  ↙ Row 43: A x 5, F x 1, G x 3, A x 2 (11 squares)  ↗ Row 44: A x 1, G x 4, A x 5 (10 squares)  ↙ Row 45: A x 5, G x 3, A x 1 (9 squares)  ↗ Row 46: A x 1, G x 2, A x 5 (8 squares)  ↙ Row 47: A x 5, G x 1, A x 1 (7 squares)  
Cut all yarn colors except A.
Work remainder of piece with A only.
Rows 48-53: With A, sl st in each dc across to next ch-3 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-3 sp to last ch-3 sp, sl st in last ch-3 sp. (1 square in Row 53)Do not fasten off.

BORDER:
Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced all the way around the outer edge of piece, working (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner; join with a sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.

FINISHING:
Hold front & back with wrong sides together & stitches matching.
Using A & tapestry needle, sew edges together around 3 sides, leaving edges of last side unsewn.
Insert pillow form or stuff pillow.
Sew edges of last side together.
Weave in ends.


ABBREVIATIONS:
ch = chain
ch-sp(s) = chain space(s) previously made
dc = double crochet
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)