Kids Dragon Costume

by JOANN |

Item # 262027328P163

Intermediate Varies

Costume:

Use Simplicity® pattern 1765 B.
Apply fusible web, per manufacturer directions, to backs of appliques. Stitch along edges with a zig zag stitch to secure to body of suit.
Shift the 1st and 2nd scales on the upper back to provide a 3 1/2" space for the wings to lay flat on the back.
Double the short width of the collar fabric. With RST sew the collar to the neck with 3/8" SA. Fold the raw edges of the collar in 1/4" and sew. Fold the collar RST. The long, folded edge will cover the neck seam. Match the centers of the neck and collar. Pin. Sew close to the edges of the front fold and along the neck.
Substitute foam wings.

Wings: To print the patterns, click on the "Download Project PDF" button (above).

Trace one full wing pattern on to 1/4" foam. Mark center lines on front and back. Cut.
Trace 2 wing rib patterns on to 1/8" foam. Cut.
Trace 2 wing rib patterns on to 1/4" foam. Cut. To cut inside of the ribs, follow the dotted lines on the pattern with the saw blade. These seams will need to be glued back together but will not be visible, after painted, if lined up accurately.
Trace 1 center back on to 1/8" foam. Cut.
Heat surfaces and edges of each part. Be sure to heat the seams on the ribs.
Glue together the seams on the ribs that were created by cutting into the space between the ribs.

Trace and glue 1/8" wing ribs to full wings. Match center lines. Glue center first. Slowly lower ribs matching outer edges.
Flip the wings.

Trace and glue 1/4" wing ribs to full wings same as front. Trace and glue center back lining up top edges.
Cut strap holes through with an X-Acto® knife.
Optional: Use a rotary tool with a stone bit to smooth any inconsistencies in layered edges of foam. Sandpaper may be used for any minor imperfections on edges.
Heat one side of wings on the thick areas, 2-3" from center, top and bottom, front and back. While warm, bend and pull wings to curve toward the back. Hold the curve until the bend remains when released. Over curve when bending areas. Some relaxation of the curves is expected once the foam has cooled completely.
Heat both sides of one upward curve on the lower band of one wing and pinch the lower points together. Hold the curve until the bend remains when released. Repeat for the other side. Repeat on other lower curves on wings alternating directions of curve. The bottom edges of the wings will have an accordion fold. See reference photos.
Paint a thin layer of Mod Podge over all areas of the wings with a 2" foam brush. Let dry for a few minutes. Spread out any puddles that form in crevices with a #4 flat brush. Let dry completely before flipping and coating the other side.

Use 1" brush to apply two coats of red paint on the panels and the edges inside the ribs and the center panel on the back. Flip and repeat.
When red has dried, apply two coats of black paint to the top surfaces of the ribs and the outer edge of the wings. Flip and repeat.
Cut strapping/belting: two 15" for top straps, two 21" for bottom straps. Attach a large safety pin on the end of one 15" strap. Weave strapping from the front of the wings through the top strap hole and back through the lower top strap hole. Remove the safety pin. Fold the raw edge under 1/2" and hand sew together to secure the strap to the wing. Repeat.
Take slide buckles and attach to the other end of each of the top straps. Fold under raw ends 1/2" and hand sew.
Attach the bottom straps same as the top but enter first in the bottom strap hole and bring the strap back through the top hole.
Finish raw ends. Slide finished ends through slide buckle.
Flip so back side of wings is up. Use black paint to paint out the red belting loops that are visible.

Mask:

Cut 2 foam rods to 5 1/2" long. 2" up from one end, cut on a diagonal tapering from one side of rod to the other. This will be the surface that attaches to the face. Repeat. 2" from the other end taper all the way around the rod to a point at the end. This will be the tip of the horns. Repeat. Use sandpaper to soften tapers. Heat one horn (all surfaces). Hold the thickest part and heat the tapered area. Pull and bend the foam to the desired curve. Hold the curve until the bend is set. Repeat.
Cut 1 face from 1/4" foam.
Cut 2 eyebrows, 2 wings, 1 nose and 1 nose detail from 1/8" foam.
Heat all surfaces and edges of all parts.
Lay wings onto face lining up edges and lay eyebrows above eyes holes. Trace with a pencil. Glue.
Lay nose detail on nose. Trace and glue.
Glue center of nose between eyes.
Heat center top of nose. Pull up and away from the mask to curve. Glue sides only of top of nose to face. This will leave a pocket opening at the top edge of the mask.
Fold sides of nose, under nostrils, under center of nose. Match up edges. This will raise the nose from the face. Glue.

Heat wing sections at the top and bottom close to the face. Pull away from the face while hot to curve. Heat the chin to curve under slightly.
Apply Mod Podge with a foam brush to the entire surface. Pull out puddles.

Use 1/2" flat brush to apply two coats of red. Reference photo for areas. Take red up edges of surrounding foam.
Use 1/2" flat brush to paint two coats of black on the top surfaces referenced in the photos.
Use X-Acto® knife to cut the holes through for the elastic.
Cut a 14" length of 1/4" elastic. Weave one end from the back to the front and back through the second hole to the back. Sew to secure. Test the length on the intended user to set the appropriate length. Attach the second side same as first.

Test heating the foam with the heat gun. Hold the gun 2" from the surface & move with a circular motion. The surface of the foam quickly changes color when heated enough. Heating is necessary for the contact cement to be effective & the Mod Podge to adhere.
Use foam brush to apply Mod Podge. Most other brushes will leave a texture on the surface that will show up when painted with metallic or gloss paints.
Store foam creations hanging to prevent denting.